Getting Settled
3-3-3 Rule
During the first three days, your dog is sniffing their surroundings and trying to learn who you are. They’ll begin to settle in and get used to your routines in the first three weeks. And, after the first three months, most dogs will have acclimated to their new environment, though some may need up to a year to become entirely comfortable.
First Three Days
- Strictly limit guests and outings
- Only 1-2 people should come over during this time (preferably people who are regular guests)
- Keep walks close to the home and in the neighborhood during quiet time
First Three Weeks
- Slowly increase the number of guests you have over at once and how often guests come by
- Slowly increase the distance you walk from your home by going different directions and walking at busier times
First Three Months
- Try to keep your dog’s schedule as consistent and predictable as possible. Dogs thrive with a regular routine!
- Go at your dog’s comfort level and pay attention to body language to ensure they’re comfortable.
- By the end of the first few months, your goal is to have exposed your dog to future encounters, including:
- People in and out of the home
- Other dogs if your dog is dog-friendly
- Common, but not regular, objects such as a mop or Halloween yard decorations
- Sounds such as the vacuum. Turn the vacuum on and play firework sounds to prepare for July 4th
- Local parks and hiking trails, dog-friendly stores like Home Depot if your dog is people-friendly
- As you socialize them, have treats you can use to help your dog feel comfortable if they show fear or anxiety.
- Never force them closer to something they may think is scary. It should always be their decision to engage.
What is your dog’s body language saying?
Dogs that are fearful, anxious, and nervous tend to hold body parts back, lowered, and tucked. The signs are:
- Ears pinned back
- Head lowered
- Body weight held back (looks like they’re stretching)
- Tail tucked
Dogs that are alert, reactive, and over-excited tend to hold body parts up and forward.
The signs are:
- Ears pulled forward, causing vertical wrinkles in the forehead
- Head held high
- Body leaning forward
- High and straight tail or high and short wagging tail
Dogs that are over-stimulated, whether they are scared, reactive, or excited, may display these body changes:
- Excess panting, drooling, or pacing
- Exhibiting a stressed smile when the corners of the mouth pull back into sharp points, pushing the cheeks back
- Large, round eyes, extra white in the eye, or dilated pupils
- Excessive shedding and extra dandruff
Safe Space
Create a safe, comfortable space for your dog to retreat to if they are tired or overwhelmed. We recommend a crate for young puppies and a pen for adolescent dogs. Older dogs may only need an out-of-the-way space in an open room.
Setting Up Your Dog’s Safe Space
- Dogs want safety, not a view. The safe space should be in corners and next to walls, not windows and the center of the room
- If your dog is not destructive, you can put toys in the space and old comforters of yours so your smell is there, even when you’re not.
Introducing Your Dog to their Safe Space
- Make it magic! Toss treats inside when they’re not looking and let them discover them later
- Feed your dog in the space, keeping the crate and pen doors open for the first week
- As your dog warms up to the space, practice short closed-door experiences with a high-value and interactive distraction like a frozen Kong toy with peanut butter.
Using your Safe Space
- Guests and kids should always leave your dog alone when they are in their safe space
- Help with potty training - Dogs don’t want to eliminate where they lay. If you can’t watch your puppy, they should be in the crate.
- Help Prevent Chewing
- Until your dog is no longer chewing on inappropriate items, you should put them in a crate or pen when you can’t watch them
For more training tips and adopter discounts, visit barkinghoundvillage.com/atlanta-humane-society!